Are there any Aspie surfers out there???

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Dingo7
Deinonychus
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15 Jun 2011, 9:25 am

I pretty much live for surfing... all day every day... its cool to see that theres members here who share the passion

im from the south coast NSW... also a huge fan of clay marzo
in case nobody has mentioned already he has a great collection of vidoes on vimeo
the account name his "heavy mayo"... its a collection of edits from various sessions



Dingo7
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15 Jun 2011, 10:51 pm

Well today was definitely a disappointment... only an hour or so of water time :(
Anyone score today?... gonna try my luck again tomorrow



Dingo7
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15 Jun 2011, 10:52 pm

Well today was definitely a disappointment... only an hour or so of water time :(
Anyone score today?... gonna try my luck again tomorrow



tonka
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16 Jun 2011, 2:38 am

hey man,

nah i live in bris so only get down to the coast on the weekends....

you're lucky living on the coast... i used to live on the sunny coast and miss those times :(


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Dingo7
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16 Jun 2011, 3:41 am

Hey Dude...

ah ok fair enough.. when you go down the coast were do you usually go???

yeah its nice here... if your desperate you can get a surf in every single day of the year :)

you could probably get away with boardshorts all year couldnt you??
ive only ever been as for north as newcastle...



tonka
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16 Jun 2011, 4:01 am

hmmm if you're comfortable wearing boardies in 19C water then yeh... i wear a steamer in winter.

usually surf at the spit or burleigh most times. also do a few trips to northern nsw.


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?We cannot put off living until we are ready. The most salient characteristic of life is its coerciveness; it is always urgent, 'here and now,' without any possible postponement. Life is fired at us point-blank.?
Jose Ortega y Gasset


Dingo7
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16 Jun 2011, 4:38 am

ah ok... you can only comfortably wear boardies down here between january and march... otherwise a 3/2 wettie is what you would usually wear year round...

oh really? how are the crowds at burleigh? had a friend go up there and said before sunrise theres already 30 poeple out sometimes...

last week we had 30 people out at a wave called Pink Rocks... i thought that was absolutely ridicules... 5 or 6 people are more then enough for any spot :lol:



Lahmacun
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16 Jun 2011, 6:58 am

I live in Southern Florida near the Atlantic and just got my first boogie board! Like another poster, the waves around here are limited to boat wakes, but it's fun.

My husband and I will be moving to Israel soon and living on the Mediterranean. Although I don't think there are surf-worthy waves up there (I'm not sure, though...please correct me if I'm wrong), would you surfers suggest I get a body suit, even though I'll just be on a boogie board? I want to swim in the ocean for fitness and relaxation, but I don't want to get cut up and I do want to stay warm. Thanks, anyone and everyone!



Dingo7
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16 Jun 2011, 7:45 am

Coincidentally i was just reading an article on surfing in Israel... and there are waves... however i dont know where you would have to go to find them exactly... im not sure how the water is there either...
did a quick google search which is saying 25' celcius average... if thats true then a full body wetsuit isnt necessary but yeah i dont know how accurate that is exactly...

as far as getting cut up... you should be pretty safe on a bodyboard at your local beach



Lahmacun
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16 Jun 2011, 9:54 am

Thanks, Dingo7!



tangomike
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16 Jun 2011, 4:27 pm

I've surfed with Clay Marzo last year back in Hawaii. Me and my friend Dave were at North Shore by Chuns Reef and he nudged me and was like....dude is that Clay Marzo? Marzo was sharing waves with us, he was really chill but quiet.



Dingo7
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16 Jun 2011, 8:07 pm

Oh wow... that would have been so sick to watch... did you try talk to him at all???
ive read that his easy to talk to in the surf...

How is the north shore compared to how crowded and crazy they say it is in the magazines? its somewhere ive always wanted to go...



bdubs
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16 Jun 2011, 9:37 pm

What up Dingo welcome to WP. I love to surf, havent got many sessions in this year seems like every time there is a nice swell on the east coast of FL I have work. My dream is to one day live close to the coast. Tonka is an Aussie ripper!



tangomike
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16 Jun 2011, 9:39 pm

Dingo7 wrote:
Oh wow... that would have been so sick to watch... did you try talk to him at all???
ive read that his easy to talk to in the surf...

How is the north shore compared to how crowded and crazy they say it is in the magazines? its somewhere ive always wanted to go...


Yeah we paddled over and were like dude! Clay! could you sign my surfboard when we get to shore? He was chill and said sure and were out there for the entire afternoon. He was SICK, he could do all these crazy spins I don't think he follows the rules of physics.

I kind of asked him how everything was going for him with the Aspergers and all when my friend was far off. He seemed kind of hesitant to talk about it but I was like , you know I have it too. At that he was really open and sounded an awful lot like the people on here. He was asking about like how I fit in socially at college parties and other people my own age.... Apparently he is madly famous but apart from several close friends and his really beautiful girlfriend but he doesnt have 'friends'....hes just surrounded by fans, reporters and cameras and fake 'friends' who want to be associated with him because hes Clay marzo..... He seemed pretty happy to see that I was able to pretty much pass off as a normal 21 year old w/ friends and a full social life, he said its possible for him too with time, but he spends so much time surfing he doesnt socialize much.

Um, the North Shore is a local favorite spot for beach goers. You get lots of families, teenagers, ppl of all ages and types that go to the North Shore....but when the surf is good the surfers come out of the woodwork and SWAMP it. Thankfully the North Shore is a pretty long stretch of beach so theres enough waves for everyone most of the time.



bdubs
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16 Jun 2011, 9:42 pm

tangomike that is awesome!



Dingo7
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17 Jun 2011, 7:23 am

Tangomike...




i am so jealous.......... thats so sick.... but it sounds like what i would expect from him... to be overwhelmed by fans and fake friends... but he sounds like a really cool guy :)... i would like to meet him one day...

otherwise Phil MacDonald is a regular around here... but hes very arrogant... probably the only big name from around here...

I got to meet Ozzie Wright not long ago... hes been one of my heros for so long and he was such a cool guy... its nice to meet your favorite surfers to find out they are as friendly as you would hope them to be :)


Ahh yeah... I bet it would be crowded... on a crowded day i might share a lineup with about 10 - 15 people so i guess the north shore would be a bit intimidating for the first time


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