Crafting stuff

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Apparently not. Most here, including us primarily draw and whatnot.... so it's just us until this thread catches on.

Keep in mind crafting takes some space. Folks need tools, materials, etc...and are often dealing with sharp, hot, and messy equipment.

stardraigh - I looked at your gallery and noticed the viking round shield, are you a medievalist (reenactor)? I also looked at your jewlery, do you do any metal casting? Since you are obviously interested in Vikings, and jewelry making. I'll put forth a bit of my knowledge of viking/medieval pewter casting.

This site describes basic viking pewter casting for modern medievalists, it's not my page but I advise students to use it as a reference. See this LINK I've taught this to at least 50 people in 2 hour classes of small groups and almost anyone can learn to do it.

In these classes I had students from age 8-70 all safely carve their own soapstone molds. Then cast their token in lead free pewter.

Only using handtools, mostly dental tools, x-acto-knives, small chisels and hobby woodcarving tools. The cheap stuff sold at chain craft stores. Everything from moms and kids to metal miniature carvers from Citadel miniatures. Using mostly period techniques.

These were outdoor classes at medieval events, as metal fumes and soapstone powder is not something you want to breath indoors. The class always ran long as some folks were slower to design and carve their stone mold. Most had them carved and ready in 1 1/2 to 4 hours and add an hour to get everyone poured. The blowtorch (Propane or Mapp gas) was of course not historically accurate.

Do not do this on your own, without the proper research. If anyone reading this is under 18, do not attempt without proper training and adult supervision.
Again proceed at your own risk and do your own research as this is not the same as a class just a starting point.

All it basically takes is.
For the mold
For the mold, carve it outside from some small blocks of soapstone bought for carving. 3x3x1 is a good start. You will need two.
Use the hand tools above.....or a dremel tool to carve said mold, being careful not to create undercuts. (See above link to explain this )
Carve a channel to pour in pewter, simple huh?

(Or you can cheat like they did during the crusades and get a cuttlefish bone, and imprint a existing object into the bone by pressing firmly until its about as deep as a coin or two, then carve the channel and air escapes with an X-acto. (It's a bit harder than styrofoam, but softer than balsa wood)

To cast
Leather Welding gloves (Get a good pair as molten metal will get on them)
Lead ladle (Bullet casting ladles work great)
Cheap 12x12 marble tile to protect table surface from pewter overspill.
Protective eyewear. Shoes, long pants, and most of all common sense.

Basic Method in Short
Wearing gloves, or a glove on the non-pouring hand (if ladle has insulated handle). Do all of this on the marble tile outdoors away from anything flammable.

1. First the soapstone mold is heated to remove any water vapor trapped within the stone. As to not create a "shotgun effect" or fountain of molten metal shooting at you.

You will see the stone dry before your eyes in 10-20 seconds, now proceed to heat the central mold and channel. Then line it up with the flat stone back as this will be the complete mold.

2. You melt an almost full ladle of Pewter (I use Britannia alloy) using your torch, heating the metal evenly until liquid, keeping much of the heat on the pouring surface of your ladle . I like my ladles very hot.

3. While continuing step 2. heat the molds channel by flashing it with torch. Sometimes I have the mold slightly open, to flame it within with my torch as the marble reflects the heat into all the recesses. (Be careful the mold gets hot and may be hard to hols with the gloved hand still, sometimes an extra glove that's cooler can be helpful.)

4. When ready, using gloved hand grab mold securely while resting it on the marble. Then evenly pour the molten pewter into the channel until filled. if any overflows, just tip the mold slightly and the excess will pour onto the marble and harden. Hold the mold closed for as long as comfortable, but to release it before 20 seconds may ruin the piece. It's a learning process, dependent to tools and stones the thickness.

Starting casters should use thicker stone.

Slightly tap the mold with a pencil or gloved finger to release any air bubbbles. Let mold cool (about a minute) then remove from mold by flipping the mold over using gloved hands as both the stone and mold are now very hot. When I'm mass making tokens I let them cool about 20-30 seconds before releasing from the mold. Remember HOT pewter looks like cold pewter, let them cool.

Trim the pewter and you now can cast another 1000 for pennies on the dollar, of original pieces no one else has.
Again I'm not advising anyone to do this, just explaining that it's a cheap and simple hobby to do, and a profitable one.

Mold example (Both shown before) and cast tokens from my soapstone molds.