Are there any Aspie surfers out there???

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Hi there,

I'm a very mild aussie Aspie whose passion is surfing - I haven't ever competed but I have surfed all through South America, Europe, South Africa, Costa Rica, Indonesia, Samoa, New Zealand, and all around Oz too. I have had a couple of photos published in magazines, not of me surfing though, just the pictures I have taken of surf line ups.

I can cut back and do floaters, occasionally a re entry, but I can't do aerials or backside tube riding. I do get out around Bells Beach (in Oz) every weekend though, and have ridden waves in the range of 20 foot faces (10 foot in Aussie surfer speak). Any aspies out there that are keen surfer's, in particular good surfers?? Any famous surfers that may have Asperger's??

Yeh man, I live for surfing...

Clay marzo has asperger's and RIPS

ps. how is surfing at bells? i was gonna go down there earlier in the year but ended up going to margaret river instead (warmer!)
pps. i mainly surf the goldie or the sunshine coast

Hey, I'm a grom-kookish-aspie making my own quiv. It's my latest obssession. I spend allot of time on swaylocks. Just started surfing and getting better (not pearling so much now) I try to stay out of peoples way until i get more control.I enjoy it very much. Especialy an early morning surf with few out.

Check out these clips of Clay ripping!

Just add water
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvZbUuwM4_w

Young Guns 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xp18I_9gH0

Young Guns 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7M_o3TmMilk

Surfer's Healing
http://www.surfershealing.org/

Where ya from RNS?

New Jersey, US been flat here mostly too but it doesn't bother me too much my board is wood and hard to get out on big days.


In the first vid @2:46 amazing he almost made it.


What's your sphere of excelence?

science/maths

new jersey? must get freaking cold yeh? I complain when the water temp gets below 20C

You should have a board with a picture of the mandlebrot set on it.

Yes does not warm until mid July and I don't have a suit. (or any sizable portion of body fat.) I usually last no more than a half hour. Thats about the temp here now. I was fooling around with an alaia about 2 months ago and frozz me azz.

funny you should mention fractals, the wallpaper on my laptop has some funky fractals...

i think i'd prefer a lorenz attractor on my board i reckon...

there's a company in new zealand that make some wicked custom made wetsuits (prices are in NZD so it would be relatively cheap i reckon for an american). i'd get one of these suits if i surfed in cold water.

Yeah that would nice artwork for a board.

I'm going to need a suit come fall.

Skipped out of work early today. Water was real warm. Storm must have stered the stream or something. Lookin forward to tommorow!

Hey man I love surfing. I am obseesed! I live on the gulf coast of FL so all we get is boat wakes haha. I make a lot of trips over to the other coast: daytona beach, Sebastin Inlet, Fort Pierce. Unfortunately its summer time July so no waves in FL. Surprisely this hurricane season has been real inactive, too. So I've been skating and slacklining alot. Dude I want to hit up austrailia so bad, surf, chill with some kangaroos, and cook some ribs on the barbie haha.

Since I moved away from the coast I have been hitting up the local skate park, until last week that is, when i busted my ankle.

Airfares to Aus are pretty cheap these days, like $1200AUD return from LAX.

p.s barbies on the beach with a few cold beers are hard to beat, especially after a surf! oh yeh...

Now your talking. Might cause me to do something impulsive.

hey,

i'm not a surfer but a kitesurfer. quite a different sport really but i do love to play in the waves. a big wave session can be so feckin scary but at the same time exhilarating. surfing looks awesome too but where i usually go there is not really any surf able waves. share the stoke!!

Just keep that thing off my head when I'm catchin rays between surfs

LOL. Kite boarding looks sick but the equip is expensive. Ive seen alot of real bad crashes too.

hahaha, don't worry i'm always careful around swimmers and surfers. a lot of people are quite intimidated by the kite. it is kind of expensive for new gear but secondhand stuff ain't too bad. the secondhand market is nowhere near as good as it used to be though.

as far as crashes i have had two bad ones, one was just a stupid mistake and the other was due to a crappy harness breaking my rib. i have been doing it for 5 years or so though. It is so much fun!

I had a wee go at surfing on a massive board once. it was really fun but i think it would take me ages to do anything properly exciting. seems far more skilled with far less margin for error than kitesurfing.