anyone use a soldering iron?

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just curious .......

I have a collection of soldering irons, from a temperature controlled Hakko to a big 100 watt iron popularly used for stained glass work. I also have a Mapp torch and some silver brazing rod.

Yep. For hobby electronics work.

I've done plenty of soldering, but I've never actually figured out how to use a soldering iron properly. I always end up making cold solder bonds, which I guess are good enough for splicing wires, but not for anything on PCBs.

To solder electronics you need very clean metal. Ideally, you would use new electronic parts that haven't had time to oxidize or rust. Then you would tin the soldering iron with a little solder to facilitate heat transfer, and then heat up both the PCB trace and the lead you want soldered. The PCB trace/lead should get hot enough to melt solder. Apply just enough solder to the lead/PCB trace to make a good joint. It helps to practice on scrap electronics.

I tend to use a 25 W ANTEX iron, I find that things like Wellers run too cold for my liking. I also tend to use lead/tin solder. I do not like lead free, I have tried lead free a few times. It does not seem to behave quite right. I have been using the same iron for over 20 years. The modern version can be seen here http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/precis ... rons/xs25/. My iron is close to that bit slightly different.

I have tried temperture controlled irons with pointed tips but I never liked them, I tend to like a iron jacketed copper ANTEX tip which never needs filing. With my 25 W Weller iron I went through a lot of tips. I kept having to change tips. I also found some copper tips which fitted the Weller. These had to be filed down on a regular basis which was a pain.

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Diagnosed under the DSM5 rules with autism spectrum disorder, under DSM4 psychologist said would have been AS (299.80) but I suspect that I am somewhere between 299.80 and 299.00 (Autism) under DSM4.

I have a Weller and something ancient from Radio Shack years ago.

Yes, I love soldering electrical and electronic connections. I prefer a pointed tip rather than a chisel shaped tip. If possible rub the surfaces gently with fine sandpaper. If soldering wire, heat it well and tin it first before making the connection. Place the two surfaces together and hold the iron on them so they get very hot. Then apply the end of the solder to the hot surfaces so that it melts across them, ie. let the heat in the surfaces melt the solder don't touch it to the iron. Dry joints usually happen due to inadequate heat.

I fixed a solar yard light today. The leads to the high intensity LEDs rusted and broke, so I repaired the broken wires and it works again!

Yes. Just soldered the other day, first time in years. Was a bit rusty.

Oh Yes. I got my first one when I was about 13/14 years old for making up hobby kits. More recently I worked as an assembly technician in a small company that still hand assembled the majority of its products. I would even have to hand solder prototypes for boards with tiny surface mount components - soldering iron tip like a sewing needle, tweezers to hold the parts, and a very big magnifying glass!

And I've accidentally picked one up by the wrong end more times that I care to remember - Ow!

Yes

Yes mainly Jbc and some Hakko equipment, hot air for smt components, as above leaded solder has a perfect
eutectic point, lead free is hard to work or rework. Flux is also needed to create perfect solder connection it has anoxic properties, stopping oxidation as the metals surfaces join.

Oh, yeah. I used to be a computer engineer, and have soldered many-a-circuit board, and LOVED it----in fact, I enjoyed doing it so much, I started buying kits at Radio Shack, and it became quite a hobby, for a while.

I used to in school. I was good at it, and I really liked it.